Viticulture in the South

A symposium presented as part of the SRASHS meeting
Mobile, Alabama, February 3, 2003

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Contents

Introduction to the Symposium
Grapes and Wine In Kentucky and Tennessee
Viticulture in the Old North State
Viticulture in the Southeastern PD Zone
Viticulture in Oklahoma and Arkansas
Georgia’s Grape Industry
A Texas Wine History

Introduction to the Symposium

The South has a long history of involvement with grapes and wines. The Kentucky Vineyard Society was formed in 1789, making it the first organization of its kind in the United States. The first commercial winery in North Carolina opened in 1835 and, by 1840, North Carolina was the largest wine-producing state in the nation. Arkansas is the oldest juice and wine producing state in the southern part of the United States. The 1889 grape acreage in Tennessee was estimated to be about 2,150 acres, between five and six times the current grape acreage. The onset of Prohibition resulted in the sharp decline of wineries throughout the nation.

Within the past three decades, there has been a tremendous resurgence in viticulture and enology throughout the South. In an attempt to address the challenges and opportunities in this area, a symposium titled “Viticulture in the South” was conducted as part of the Southern Region for the American Society for Horticultural Sciences meeting held in Mobile, AL, on February 3, 2003.

Information on the history and current status of the grape/wine industry in Arkansas, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, North Carolina, Oklahoma, Tennessee and Texas was presented. Together, these states have more than 7,600 acres of grapes and 152 wineries producing in excess of 4,500,000 gallons of wine annually. A conservative estimate of the yearly gross value of these wines exceeds one quarter of a billion dollars. These numbers are increasing at significant rates each year.

Grape production is an important alternative agricultural enterprise. Wines are one of the best examples of value-added products. Southern grape growers and winemakers face some unique problems that will require continued involvement of the scientific community to overcome. Continued expansion of the grape/wine industry may well depend in large part on the contributions of groups such as SERA-IEG 14.

Grapes and Wine In Kentucky and Tennessee

David W. Lockwood
Department of Plant Science
University of Tennessee

One of the first recorded efforts to grow grapes commercially in Tennessee occurred in Stewart County with the planting of two acres of “imported varieties.” By 1889, Tennessee had 1500 acres of bearing and 650 acres of nonbearing vineyards. Total production that year was estimated to be 3,750 tons, with 2,500 tons being sold for table use and 1,250 tons being used to make 208,333 gallons of wine which sold for $1 per gallon. The average yield was 2.5 tons per acre. Prohibition led to the demise of commercial wineries throughout the state.

The Tennessee Farm Winery Act of 1978 resurrected interest in commercial wine production. This act has undergone numerous revisions. Currently, a Tennessee farm winery can make and sell up to 40,000 gallons of wine at the winery and have free on-site tasting rooms. For the first three years of a winery’s life, up to 50% of the fruit used may be purchased from outside the state. This figure increases to 75% in subsequent years. Waivers granted on a winery-by-winery, variety-by-variety basis may be granted under certain circumstances to allow wineries to purchase over 25% of their fruit from out-of-state sources. Up to eight wine festivals may be held annually throughout the state.

The Viticulture Advisory Board was set up by the governor to bring about the orderly development of the grape/wine industry in the state. Currently, Tennessee has 27 licensed wineries producing about 140,000 gallons of wine a year. There are an estimated 395 acres of grapes in the state. American varieties make up about 60% of the total, French-American hybrids account for 30%, with muscadines and V. vinifera making up the balance. Significant problems with grape root borers are being encountered in many vineyards throughout the state. Pierce’s Disease, although rarely found in Tennessee, has been identified in two vineyards located about 50 miles west of Chattanooga. Interest in additional grape acreage and wineries remains high.

Established in 1798, the Kentucky Vineyard Society is the oldest vineyard society in the United States. Kentucky was the site of the first commercial vineyard in the U. S. and, by 1860, was the third largest grape producing state in the nation. Currently, Kentucky has 282 acres of commercial vineyards. Half of the acreage is comprised of French-American hybrid varieties - primarily Chambourcin, Seyval, Vidal and Foch. Vitis vinifera varieties (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and Riesling) make up 38% of the acreage. The remaining 12% are American varieties with Norton accounting for half.

A 400% increase in the number of vineyards occurred in the last four years. Cost-sharing funds in the years 2000 and 2001 led to 50% of Kentucky’s vineyards being planted in those years. Pierce’s Disease was found in a vineyard located near the Ohio River in 2001 and 2002. The Kentucky Wine Law allows a “farm winery” to make up to 25,000 gallons of wine per year and a “small winery” to produce up to 50,000 gallons of wine per year. Although no requirement to purchase instate fruit exists, grapes brought into the state for wine are subject to being taxed. Wineries are allowed to have satellite sales areas. Kentucky currently has eleven licensed wineries. Production in 2002 was estimated to be 26,185 gallons. This figure is expected to triple in 2003 as the majority of Kentucky’s vineyards produce their first crop.

Viticulture in the Old North State

R.A. Allen
Dept. of Horticultural Science
North Carolina State University
Raleigh, NC

Grapes have been grown in North Carolina since the time of the earliest settlers. Production of grapes and wines was based upon the native Vitis rotundifolia, in particular, the variety Scuppernong. A census in 1810 found enough grapes and wine being produced to qualify as a new American industry. By 1840 North Carolina was ranked as the largest wine-producing state in the nation. The state’s first commercial winery, Medoc Vineyards, was founded in 1835 by Sydney Weller, and at 6 acres was the largest in the state by the 1840 census. It had a yearly output of 40 to 70 barrels of wine.

After the Civil War grape and wine production, still based mainly on Scuppernong, again flourished. Native bunch grapes, principally Concord and Niagra, were also produced for the fresh market. The 1990 census reported over 1.2 million vines across the state, with over 12 million pounds of fruit and 146,699 gallons of wine produced. Leading the industry in this period was Paul Garrett, whose Scuppernong-based Virginia Dare wine was the leading brand sold in the United States until national prohibition. After prohibition was repealed, Garrett tried in vain re-establish his wine empire, touting muscadine production as a method to end unemployment in the South, but lingering prohibitionist sentiments prevented any planting on a large scale.

Grape acreage remained low until the 1960's when large acreages began to be established to supply out-of-state wineries. By 1976, grape plantings, again primarily muscadines, reached over 2600 acres. Two other events of future industry importance also started around this time. The first bunch grapes for wine production were being planted in the Piedmont and Mountain regions and Duplin Winery, a co-op muscadine winery started in response to declining muscadine prices, was established. Loss of the out-of-state market sent grape acreage into a downward trend and by 1998 total vineyard acres numbered around 400.

Currently, the North Carolina grape and wine industry is undergoing a rebirth. Leading this turnabout are vineyards and wineries based on varieties of Vitis vinifera, primarily Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet franc, Merlot, and Viognier. As of 2002, there are approximately 750 acres of bunch grapes, primarily Vitis vinifera, established with at least 50 more planned for 2003.

Muscadines are also enjoying renewed popularity and there are currently approximately 380 acres established. The principal varieties are Carlos, Noble, Scuppernong, and Magnolia. The number of wineries has increased from 10 in 1998 to 26 at the start of 2003, with 10 more scheduled to open by the end of 2003. North Carolina is in the transition area for Pierce’s Disease, and several new vineyards have been infected due to unseasonably warm winters during the past 3-4 years. In late 2002, North Carolina was granted its first appellation by the BATF, designated the Yadkin Valley AVA.

Viticulture in the Southeastern PD Zone - The Past, Present and Future

Jiang Lu
Center for Viticultural Science and Small Fruit Research
Florida A & M University
Tallahassee, FL 32317

Early settlers attempted to grow European grapes (V. vinifera) in Florida and other southeastern regions over 300 years ago. Through centuries of experimentation, however, scientists and grape growers found the non-native grapevines could not endure the region’s climate - high day and night temperatures, high humidity and high rainfall levels - throughout most of the growing season. These unfavorable climatic conditions caused serious disease problems such as Pierce’s Disease (caused by the Gram-negative bacterium, Xylella fastidiosa, which is transmitted by sharp shooters), fungal diseases such as downy mildew [Plasmopara viticola (Berk. & Curt.) Berl. & de Toni], and anthracnose [Elsinoe ampelina (de Barry) Shear]. Due to Pierce’s Disease, European grapes would die a few years after planting.

However, experiments on planting the native American species and hybrids in this region continued. In the late 19th century, there were three to four hundred acres of Vitis labrusca grapes planted in Florida. Unfortunately, they had a fate similar to the European grapes. By the 1920's, vineyards based primarily on Munson’s hybrids in Florida increased to between 4,000 and 5,000 acres. The acreage quickly declined due to many shortcomings of these varieties.

Species native to the southeastern United States, such as ‘bunch’ grapes V. aestivalis and V. shuttleworthii are resistant to various fungal and bacterial diseases which affect non-natives. However, most of the native species do not have commercial value due to their poor fruit quality.

In order to develop commercial grape cultivars that can grow in the area formerly considered unsuitable for grape production, the University of Florida established a grape breeding program in the 1940'2. Several disease (PD and fungal diseases) resistant cultivars were released during the period from 1950 - 1970. As a result, several hundred acres of ‘Orlando Seedless’, ‘Conquistador’, ‘Suwannee’ and ‘Blanc du Bois’ in the early - mid 1980's, acreage increased quickly to 500 by the late 1980's. However, due to the problems of fungal diseases among these newly released varieties, acreage declined quickly again in the early 1990's. By the late 1990's, only 100 plus acres of bunch grapes were being grown in Florida, and the number of wineries were down to three.

Since the hybrids originating from Florida are uniquely distinguished from grapes grown in other areas of the nation, they are commonly known as “Florida Hybrid Bunch Grapes”. Acreage of the hybrid grapes has steadily increased during the last few years. Similarly, there is increasing interest in growing Florida hybrid bunch grapes in other southeastern states where PD is a limiting factor to growing non-natives.

Today, there are eleven wineries in Florida which produce both Florida hybrid and muscadine (‘Carlos’ and ‘Noble’) wines. Overall, the Florida hybrid bunch grapes are tolerant to Pierce’s Disease but susceptible to the fungal diseases anthracnose and downy mildew. They possess much improved fruit quality for processing, with ‘Blanc du Bois’ being the best white wine cultivar, followed by ‘Suwannee’ and ‘Stover’. The only red wine variety among these hybrids is ‘Conquistador’, but it has shortcomings of unstable pigment and uneven ripening.

The future of the bunch grape industry in the PD area will very much depend on the improvement of the existing cultivars and the development of new cultivars. Unfortunately, several grape breeding programs in this region have been discontinued. Florida A&M University initiated a bunch grape breeding program in the 1990's and it has been expanding ever since. Advanced selections are being tested and evaluated in several locations. Some of these selections are very promising.

Viticulture in Oklahoma and Arkansas

*Dean McCraw, Extension Horticulturist, Oklahoma State Univ.
Keith Striegler, Extension Horticulturist, University of Arkansas

Oklahoma's Wine Industry began prior to statehood in 1907 when homesteaders established vineyards and produced wine for home use. The 1917 "Bone dry law" banning all alcoholic beverages in OK was overturned by the OK Supreme Court in 1918 on the principle of religious freedom. Little activity occurred during prohibition which did not end in OK until 1959. Lack of industry activity caused OSU to drop its grape program in 1996.

In the late 1990's growers, winemakers and economic development agencies had renewed interest in the OK wine industry. Attendance at Oklahoma Grape Growers and Wine Makers Association meetings surged. Legislative & public support increased. The voting public gave 70% approval of wine industry favorable legislation. OSU restored support for the industry and planted acreage increased from about 50 in 1999 to over 200 in 2001. OK currently has 16 licensed wineries and commercial plantings in about 45 of 77 counties. Vinifera varieties dominate planting schemes.

Research/education support from OSU emphasizes variety/rootstock adaptability cultural practices and pest management as well as business planning and management. Protocol to provide wineries with quality control testing services is under development. The OK Grape Management Course has provided in depth instruction to over 250 prospective growers since 2000.

The OK industry likely will see fewer growers with more acreage, use of mechanization and less dependence on vinifera varieties in favor of hybrid and American types particularly in more northern counties. Winery capacity and sales of processed juice will increase as planted acreage comes into production. Current legislative priorities for the Oklahoma wine industry include off site sales and generation of revenue to support research, education and market development activities.

Arkansas is the oldest juice and wine producing state in the southern U.S. Grapes and wine are still produced at Altus, AR by descendants of families from the 1870's. Currently, there are five wineries in Arkansas and production for 2002 is estimated to be over 500,000 gallons. In 1922 Welch Foods established a juice processing plant in Springdale, AR to make grape juice from the locally grown 'Concord' grapes. The 1.9 million-gallon capacity plant will buy no more local grapes after 2003. Muscadine juice sales are increasing. Table grape production is declining in acreage due to loss of markets.

AR's total grape acreage has decreased from about 2200 in 1992 to about 1400 in 2002. However, wine grape acreage is increasing aided by recent state regulations allowing sale of Arkansas produced wine in some grocery stores. Conversion of Concord acreage is progressing and sale of wine grapes and bulk wine to wineries in adjacent states is an important outlet.

Market advantage for Arkansas table grapes may allow re-establishment of AR's shipping industry. The Concord juice industry in NW AR will end due to loss of market and competition from urbanization. Sale of muscadine juice products will continue to increase and acreage of muscadines will increase in central and southern AR.

The wine grape industry will see increased acreage and fewer growers using more mechanization. Drip irrigation, fertigation, IPM practices and use of rootstocks will increase. Sales into adjacent states will continue. New wineries will be established due to population growth and affluence in NW Arkansas

UA will continue breeding programs, IPM, mechanization, enology, harvesting/handling and cultural practices research.

Georgia’s Grape Industry

Gerard Krewer
Horticulture Dept.
Univ. of Georgia
POB 1209
Tifton, Ga. 31793

Georgia has had a long and illustrious history in grape production and is currently the largest producer of muscadine table grapes. Soon after the founding of the Georgia colony in 1733, V. vinifera grapes were planted in the Trustees’ (Experimental) Garden in Savannah. Pierce’s disease of grapes is endemic in South and Middle Georgia, so this initial planting of grapes in South Georgia was doomed to failure.

However, the muscadine grape is native to most of Georgia and resistant to Pierce’s disease, so this species soon became the dominate grape in Middle and South Georgia. Fruit were collected in from the wild and also many wild vines were transplanted to dooryard vineyards. In the early 1800's many improved selections of muscadine grape were collected from the wild in North Carolina including ‘Scuppernong’, ‘Flowers’ and ‘Mish’.

Using these and other improved cultivars, many small vineyards were established on farms and plantations for fresh fruit, jelly, preserves and wine. Several commercial muscadine wineries were also established in Georgia in the 1800's. In the late 1800's Hungarians settled in Haralson Co. and Swiss settled in Habersham Co. where they established vineyards and wineries apparently growing American bunch grapes. These operations were successful until prohibition destroyed the industry.

Production of American bunch grape cultivars in North Georgia such as ‘Ives’, ‘Concord’, ‘Niagara’ and ‘Delaware’ to the supply the fresh fruit market continued after prohibition. About 1909, muscadine breeding and cultural studies began at the Georgia Experiment Station in Griffin. In the 1940's, a full time grape breeder, Dr. B.O. Fry was hired. Following Dr. Fry’s retirement, Dr. Ron Lane and Dr. Mel Hall have continued the muscadine grape breeding program. This excellent program has resulted in the release of many muscadine table grape cultivars and development of a Southeastern muscadine table grape industry.

Currently an estimated 900 acres (364 ha) of muscadine table grapes are produced in Georgia. These fruit are very large (25 mm or larger), sweet and very aromatic. About 300 acres (121 ha) of muscadines are grown in Georgia for juice, processing and wine primarily using North Carolina cultivars such as ‘Carlos’ and ‘Noble’. These are mechanically harvested and shipped throughout the Southeastern US. The farm gate value of the muscadine crop is about $3.5 million annually. Detailed information on muscadine grape production can be obtained at www.smallfruits.org

Vinifera grapes are being grown successfully in Georgia on the south slope of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Vineyards in this region have not had a serious problem with Pierce’s disease and winter temperatures are more moderate than the north slope of the Blue Ridge Mountains (Tennessee Valley area). An estimated 300 acres (121 ha) of vinifera and French hybrids are being grown in Georgia at this time.

Currently, Georgia has 11 wineries and retail sales are estimated at $10 million annually. Georgia has excellent potential for expansion in wine production. Currently, the muscadine table grape industry is suffering from overproduction in mid-season, but it is hoped that recent discoveries concerning the nutriceutical content of muscadine grapes may boost consumption. Muscadines are very high in ellagic acid, an anti-cancer compound, and an excellent source of dietary fiber. The rich flavor of muscadine grapes is unique and delicious and extremely appealing in processed products made from muscadine grapes.

A Texas Wine History

GeorgeRay McEachern
Department of Horticulture
Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-2134

Early Spanish settlers established vineyards near El Paso. In 1883, the Qualia family established Val Verde Winery at Del Rio with Vitis Vinifera varieties which died from Pierce’s Disease (PD) before 1910. ‘LeNoir’ and ‘Herbemont’ survived and continue today. Reports of European vines planted in the Gulf Coast were never confirmed successful. Presumably dying from PD, Black Rot, Cotton Root (CRR), and/or freeze.

T.V.Munson of Denison classified 26 Vitis sp. from 1890 to 1910 and published the work in “Foundations of American Grape Culture”. He hybridized over 230 varieties which were planted across the south, ‘Dog Ridge’ is in use as a rootstock. He collected, identified, and shipped native TX rootstocks to France for phylloxera control.

From 1893 to 1898 over 150 varieties of Vitis Vinifera and Vitis Labrusca failed at A&M College of Texas at College Station because of the above limitations. From 1909 to 1937 an A&M vineyard at Lubbock was successful but closed due to lack of public support, it was reestablished in 1968 and continues today. From 1931 to 1952 an A&M vineyard at Winter Haven identified ‘Dog Ridge’, ‘Champanel’, and ‘LaPryor’ as CRR tolerant and PD was formally identified. From 1939 to 1963 an A&M vineyard at Montague identified ‘Carmen’, ‘Beacon’, ‘Favorite’, and S 9110 as best varieties.

In the 1950's 3 large Vitis Vinifera tablegrape vineyards promoted by railroads failed from PD and CRR in Crystal City and Rio Grande City. In 1977 the TX Wine & Grape Growers Assoc. was formed. U of Texas planted 3 vineyards in far west TX in 1975-77 which led to 1,000 ac Ste Genevieve Vineyards. In 1988 Grayson Co. College began a 2 yr degree program in Viticulture & Enology which continues. Texas Tech conducts the TX Wine Marketing Res Institute.

A&M continues Res, Ext, and undergraduate and graduate teaching at Lubbock and College Station and a PD Task Force is active in the Hill Country. Today 3,000 ac of vineyards produce 2 million gallons via 45 wineries. Major areas are Lubbock, Fort Stockton, Hill Country, West Cross Timbers, and Coastal near Houston. The industry is growing with Vitis Vinifera varieties grown in the west and wineries near major metro areas of the east. Recent wine laws allow sales at all wineries.